Several
years ago, I was at a conference in Queens, New York, and a group of us had
dinner at a local restaurant. It was an
education conference and I was the only fisheries person in the group. While scanning the menu, I noticed a seafood
entrée, called Branzino. Few things are more embarrassing than the
fish guy being confused by an unfamiliar fish on a menu. Someone asked, “What’s branzino?” So I
replied, “I don’t know, but I’m ordering it.”
A smartphone search started. It turns out that
Branzino is an Italian name for the European Sea Bass Dicentrachus labrax, a member of the
Moronidae family. That’s the same family
of the Atlantic Striped Bass Morone
saxatilis, or Rockfish, so I knew this fish would be good.
European Sea Bass Dicentrarchus labrax from 21food.com |
The
European Sea Bass is second only to the Atlantic Salmon Salmo salar, as the most popular food fish in Europe and
occurs in the Mediterranean Sea and eastern Atlantic Ocean. In Ancient Greece, it was said to be the
“smartest of all fish, as it was the most difficult to catch.” However, today,
in modern Greece, it is so rare to catch one that there is an expression “I
caught a Sea Bass” (epyasa Lavraki)
that roughly translates as “I hit the jackpot”.
So how did I hit the jackpot and order a European Sea Bass in Queens?
A
popular food fish in the Mediterranean would have been overexploited many
decades ago were it not for fishing regulations. In the case of the European Sea Bass, regulations are not yet fully in place yet. Fishing mortality has been increasing and
abundance declining for at least 10 years. Usually,
a fishery goes through predictable phases if harvests are not regulated; these
are: (1) predevelopment, (2) growth, (3) full exploitation, (4) over-exploitation,
eventually (5) collapse, and hopefully (6) recovery.
Sevel phases of fishery development. (Source: FAO.org) |
Popularized by celebrity chefs, the catches of European Sea Bass are now
at a 20-year low and ICES (International Council for the Exploration of the
Seas) asked EU fishermen to reduce harvest by 80% to help revive the Sea Bass
stock! In 2015, the EU banned trawling
during the spawning season to reduce harvest on Sea Bass; this was an emergency
measure because the EU countries could not agree on harvest restrictions. The fishery for wild European Sea Bass is reaching the collapse phase because regulations are not working.
Consequently, non-profit organizations
developed a public relations campaign to “Save Our Sea Bass.” Organizations are primarily composed of the
coastal sport fishers, who have the most to lose in this conflict. Most recreational anglers in Europe release
much of their catch, and this applies to European Sea Bass where 77% of marine
anglers in England released their catch (Ferter et al. 2013). Marine
anglers from eastern and southern European countries are often more consumption
oriented. There are no studies of post-release
mortalities of European Sea Bass, so it is difficult to know how effective
minimum size limits might be. After many
years of conflict, the EU Commission persuaded the EU Member States to agree to
a number of emergency measures to restrict harvests of Sea Bass. This campaign was supported by the "other B.A.S.S." (Bass Angler’s SportfishingSociety).
Commercial harvest of European Sea Bass. Source. |
Farmed
or Wild? What’s the difference? Farmed Sea Bass are cheaper. But use of antibiotics and development of antibiotic resistance by pathogenic bacteria
is a clear human health risk and no safe residue levels are established for
most antibiotics. The market demand
for the more expensive wild Sea Bass far outstrips the sustainable
harvest. Therefore, the most likely source of my
restaurant Branzino was farmed. A recent ICES call for reduction in harvest
means the wild fish will become even rarer – however, commercial fishers have
resisted quota reductions for years. Although
the farmed Sea Bass production continues to rise, there are risks of intensive
farming. Risks include transfer of
pathogens and genetic mixing between wild and farmed animals upon the escape of
farmed sea bass from sea cages.
Wild
Sea Bass stocks are at historic lows and emergency measures (ban on pelagic
trawling, bag limit, closed areas and increased minimum size limits) are in
place to reduce harvest by both commercial and recreational harvesters. Size limits, such as a higher minimum landing
size, appear to be a long overdue management strategy in order to avoid
overfishing. The current minimum landing size of 36 cm (=14 inches) is below the
size at which female Sea Bass reach sexual maturity (40-45cm). This
minimum landing size “corresponds with the size Sea Bass the market traditionally
prefers” (Clover 2006; p 278), and not a size limit appropriate to conserve Sea
Bass.
Number of offspring produced by different sized European Sea Bass. Source. |
Gear
and area restrictions are also likely long-term management strategies debated. A Sea Bass caught with hook and line provides
the best quality flesh, relative to trawls, seines, or gill nets. Fisheries based on line-caught Sea Bass
would provide both the most jobs and highest price per kg of bass, while also
being the least damaging to the marine environment. Discarding undersized Sea
Bass is a significant issue for any fishing gear, other than hook and line. Finally, gear and area restrictions are needed
to prevent commercial fleets from targeting immature fish in nursery areas.
I
did not hit the jackpot with the Branzino
I ordered in that Queen’s restaurant. It
was the result of decades of research and development to create an intensive
sea-cage fish farming industry. While
the farmed production of European Sea Bass has grown, the harvest of Wild Sea
Bass has dwindled as commercial and recreational interests from competing
European states argue over appropriate fishing regulations. Let’s hope they act
soon to Save Our Sea Bass.
References
Clover,
C. 2004. The End of the Line: How
Overfishing Is Changing the World and What We Eat. London: Ebury Press.
Ferter,
K. and sixteen coauthors. 2013. Unexpectedly high catch-and-release rates in European marine recreational fisheries: implications for science and management.
ICES Journal of Marine Science doi: 10.1093/icesjms/fst104
Hillin, J., I. Coscia, and F. Volckaert. 2014.
European sea bass (Dicentrarchus labrax L). AquaTrace Species Leaflet.
Perdikaris, C., and I. Paschos. 2010. Organic aquaculture in Greece: a brief review. Reviews in
Aquaculture 2:102-105
Ramirez, B., L. Ortega, D. Montero, F. Tuya, and R. Haroun. 2015.
Monitoring a massive escape of European Sea Bass (Dicentrarchus labrax) at an Oceanic Island: potential species establishment. Journal of Aquaculture
Research and Development 6(5):339. doi: 10.4172/2155-9546.1000339
Sánchez Vázquez, F.J., and J.A. Muñoz-Cueto. 2014.
Biology of European Sea Bass. CRC Press. 436 pp.